My (new to me) Vintage Nettleton Longwings

Recently, I was thrifting and came across a dusty neglected piece of Northeast Americana in the longwing variety.  After a thorough once-over, I decided that these shoes would clean up nicely, so I bought them.  I love the width of the toe box and how sturdy they feel.  Given their construction and the full leather heal, I would guess they are from the 50′s or 60′s.  What do you think?

After a little TLC, the luster of leather really comes out!

I plan on doing a post on the Nettleton company in the future, but it will suffice to say that these American made shoes were crafted to last a lifetime.  For a comparison, they seem to be on par with the shoes put out by companies such as Alden or Allen Edmond.

Emblematic Tie of the Week (6)

This may be my favorite tie of this nature. Just in time for fall.

A Kevlar Weight Tweed Jacket . . .

After running a series of errands today, I decided I would treat myself to a quick rummage around a local thrift shop on my way home from said errands.  Two weeks ago I was in the same thrift shop, and saw a great pair of vintage longwings.  I don’t know why I decided to pass on them, except that I was more excited about the Burrberry sports coat (made in the USA) that I found for $1.05 (pictures will be forthcoming).  I decided if these longwings were still there, then they were meant to be mine.

Sadly, those longwings that I initially passed on had long been scarfed up (I tell myself this to lessen the pain of thinking that those shoes walked out the door five mins. before my arrival).  After the initial disappointment, I head over to the jacket/suit section.  I find nothing in my size.  As I am about to walk out the door, I see this very attractive looking odd tweed jacket.

It looked like a nice Harris Tweed, and I was correct.

Regretfully, the thrift shop tag let me know that this jacket was too small for my frame.   However, I decided to see who made such a substantial coat.

In all of my thrifting I have yet to find a single piece from this bastion of trad gear.  I decided to look for the size on the jacket with my own eyes hoping that the thrift shop had mislabeled it.  I looked in vain for a size, but found nothing.  I figured (with some sadness) a slighter gentleman would walk out with this great coat.  Then I began to analyze the logo.  It mentions the San Francisco location, which closed sometime ago, and this logo doesn’t mention their D.C. shop (when did the San Fran. shop close?).   Then, inside one of the inner pockets I found an even older logo with only the shops in Cambridge, New Haven and New York incorporated into the design.  I decided I needed to, at the very least, try the thing on.   Lo’ and behold the coat fits — well.  Even the sleeve lengths are perfect.

Then as I am leaving I spot a very attractive vintage Christian Dior tie (it has little flowers and diamonds on it).

The whole set up cost a whopping $3.50!  I have wanted a 3/2 roll sack tweed jacket for a long time now, and this one has the added benefit of being able to stop bullets (at least I think).  Gosh, I love thrifting!

Emblematic Tie of the Week (week 5)

This week’s tie comes from a now, sadly, defunct haberdasher, Yale Genton.  Many men, young and old, from Western Mass. and Northern Ct. bought quality men’s wear here for close to a century.  I was able to pick up a great odd jacket during their last week of business for a steal.  However, this post is not entitled Odd Jacket of the Week, but Emblematic Tie of the Week.  So onto the tie.

I recently bought this tie, while thrifting. It is hand sewn and silk.  I needed another brown tie, so I thought that this hit the mark fairly well.  All for a buck!  I love thrifting.

Emblematic Tie of the Week

Here is this weeks tie. I bought this recently at a goodwill for a buck! I can’t wait for Christmas to rock this mallard w/ a Santa hat.

Emblematic Tie of the Week (wk 3)

Here is this week’s tie:

Thrifting for Quality – a New Hobby

I am a graduate student in the humanities with a significant focus in ancient Near Eastern cultures.  Essentially this confession means that I am both broke and that I have more than a passing interest in history.  I also really like clothes.  These attributes have converged and have brought me to discover a new hobby, much to the chagrin of my more than supportive and patient wife.

I have been bit by the thrifting bug.[1] Thrifting, quite honestly, may be one of my favorite activities.  How else can one score a Burberrys trench coat for 3 bucks, unless by thrifting (which to date may be one of my favorite scores)?  I view this activity as more than just sifting through junk that is no longer wanted, but it is an opportunity to understand sartorial choices of a time forgotten, while simultaneously accommodating my desire for clothes that I couldn’t possibly afford to buy new.

I enjoy the history and quality behind old clothing and other goods.  By rummaging through a rack at your local Salvation Army, Goodwill or whatever other shop you may frequent, you can come across a garment that will remind you that our culture, at one time, appreciated permanence.  Now most products that are sold today are simply made to be disposable.  Sadly, our culture has created a market where price is valued over quality.  If we can’t get quality, then we are to happy have a less expensive alternative, which is often cheaply made with poor material that will need to be replaced shortly after its purchase.[2] (This also brings up a host of ethical questions regarding manufacturing processes, local economies, and labor practices.  I may write another post on this topic sometime in the future.)

An analogous example more familiar to people can be observed by studying cookware.  A 100yr old cast iron frying pan can still be a serviceable item in your kitchen for your entire lifetime, but that non-stick Teflon pan has an exponentially shorter shelf life.  Your kids aren’t going to be fighting over your old scratched T-fal set when you are gone; however, grandma’s cast iron griddle will likely have some cache.  My grandmother once told me that there are some things that are not worth skimping on and in her adamant opinion, cookware was one of them.  She would say, “If you buy cheap pans you will have to replace them all the time.  Buy good ones once and you’ll be done with it.”

I would say my grandmother’s maxim stands relatively true in regards to clothing, as well.  Don’t fool around with cheaply made clothes.  It will loose its shape quickly, pill like crazy, and/or fall apart.  A good sweater (providing your mid-section doesn’t grow) should last you at least a decade, a blazer or a pair of shoes should last even longer.  Buy them once and you’ll be done with it, at least for a while.  Sadly, buying this type of quality is very difficult to do on a grad student’s budget.  Thrifting provides the opportunity to attain an affordable wardrobe of permanence.

A trip to the thrift store gives us a window to spot items made from a time when quality mattered and companies took pride in their wears.  If you are discerning enough, then you will likely get an opportunity to find an article of clothing that will last you a decade, as well.

Happy Thrifting!

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[1] This “bug” is not to be confused with bed bugs, which I have heard\ is a problem at many NYC thrift shops.

[2] I would also note that products that are expensive are not necessarily indicative of quality either.  A good example of an expensive product that is not often made with quality materials are Cole Haan shoes.  I had a pair of monk-straps shoes that saw about a year’s worth of wearing.  After a year, the wood veneer came off on the heel exposing a hard white plastic heel construction.  Surely, these shoes were not worth the retail price of $200 plus.  I have pictures to prove it, if anyone is interested.

If you can’t find it, modify it

Since discovering my melanoma, I have been looking for a bucket hat w/ a ribbon affixed to (in order it to keep those harsh UV rays off my melon). Sadly, I haven’t been able to find one that excites me. So I decided to take matters into my own hands, and modify one that I had in a drawer. The thing has to be at least 16 years old or possibly a few yrs older.

I took a seam ripper to the hat’s hideous embroidered logo to give myself a clean canvas. Then I bought a fun ribbon, pinned it, and began hand stitching the ribbon to the hat.

Below is my first real foray into sewing (not great, but everyone has to start somewhere).

Emblematic Tie of the Week (wk 2)

This week’s tie screams New England!

Emblematic tie of the week

At least to begin this series, I will post images found on several of my own ties. Feel free to post your own pics of your favorite emblematic ties. I suppose that once I have exhausted my own collection, then I will start lurking around the interweb for more. Enjoy this weekly series.

Adam